May Sewing Tip of the Month     

Center Front Buttonhole Placement
(Some pictures on this page require the Macromedia Flash Player.)  

Buttons and buttonholes go hand in hand. You usually don’t have one without the other.   So wherever you place a buttonhole, you will almost always place a corresponding button. 

You may think that Buttons and Buttonhole placement should be a very simple matter, but in truth, there are many small decisions to make all throughout the process.   Even If you are following a pattern, you need to understand the principles behind buttonholes and their construction.

This disucssion covers buttonholes for a center front button closure.  Future aritcles will cover other uses of buttons and buttonholes.

Buttonhole Terminology

Buttonhole Orientation = horizontal or vertical
Buttonhole Placement = location of buttonholes in relation to each other and garment edges
Button width = measurement across the widest part of a button
Button thickness = measurement of the thickest part of a button, top to bottom
Buttonhole length = button width plus thickness
Button Extension = the portion of the garment edges that overlap when buttons are buttoned
Facing = a garment edge finish used at necklines, openings, armholes, etc.
Seam line = stitching line for joining 2 pieces of fabric
Bust point = fullest point of the bust on the body (also called bust apex)
Center front = an unmarked line on a garment that corresponds to the center of the front of the body (usually indicated on a pattern for placement and fitting purposes)
Center back = an unmarked line on a garment that corresponds to the center of the back of the body (usually indicated on a pattern for placement and fitting purposes)

Some patterns place buttonholes horizontally and some vertically.  Buttonhole orientation is determined by both function and fashion. 

Horizontal buttonholes stay buttoned more securely.  Any stress across the garment opening, pulls the button into the the end of the buttonhole, where the button stops.

With vertical buttonholes, the stress is across the buttonhole, causing the the opeing to widen.  Then the button pulls against the long sides of the buttonhole and can easily pop out through this wider opening.

Move your mouse over the words in the diagram at the right to see examples of buttonhole orientation.

However, in designs that include a button placket, the buttonholes can only be placed vertically.  This vertical orientation, shown at left, is typical for men’s dress shirts and some women's blouses. 

The horizontal buttonholes on the blouse show at above hold buttons more securely closed.

Fortunately, the disadvantage of vertical buttonholes can be lessened if the garment fits properly and the buttonhole is proper size for the button.
 
Please be patient.  This page is still under construction.  Check back soon.
   
   

April Tip as Stills          Sew How Home         April Tip as Video

© Copyright Pengy Productions LLC - 2005